Nerves and bravado at Thailand's one-million-baht meal

Sunday February 11, 1:53 PM



AFP  Photo

The tables were set, the silverware polished, and the harpist seated on the 65th floor of one of Bangkok's plushest hotels, as the smells of a very special meal began to waft from the kitchen.

Just a few hours later, 40 guests took their seats for Thailand's one-million-baht (29,000 dollar) dinner, where they feasted on lobsters, truffles and caviar -- prepared by six Michelin three-star chefs -- washed down with the world's finest wines.

In Mezzaluna restaurant, staff furiously scrubbed all visible surfaces, while shouts in Thai, French and German were heard from the kitchen, as the chefs got to work on Saturday's opulent 11-course menu.

"This is so exciting because this is the most extravagant event in the world so mistakes must not happen," said Thanaboon Srivichai, assistant restaurant manager. "We have to make it a success."

Ready for action in a tuxedo and maroon sash, Deepak Ohri, managing director of the host Lebua Hotels, fretted over last-minute touches for the dinner, the profits of which will go charity.

Asked if he was nervous, he replied with an emphatic "yes", but said he was looking forward to meeting the diners, who flew in from Asia, Europe, the Middle East and the United States.

Of the 40 guests -- most of whom refused to be named -- 15 paid one-million-baht, while 25 were invited for free.

One of the lucky ones was American Douglas Gollan, president and editor-in-chief of Elite Traveler, a luxury travel and lifestyle magazine only available on private jets.

He first heard about the dinner when the invitation arrived six months ago.

"I just said 'yes' and hoped they didn't rethink," he said with a grin, adding that if he were a billionaire, he would not hesitate the pay the hefty price tag, and invite 39 of his friends.

Gollan told AFP that he looked forward to sampling the luxurious cuisine and wines, which include a 1955 Chateau Latour and a 1967 Chateau d'Yquem.

"I'm hoping that the buttons on my pants don't pop off by the end of the night," he joked.

The evening's most serious problem seemed to be getting all the chefs into the kitchen in time. Some were said to find Bangkok's shopping and sightseeing a tempting distraction.

But once on duty, they displayed a Zen-like calm among skittish serving staff and scowling security, keen to evict errant onlookers seeking a glimpse at the moneyed guests.

"There is no point being nervous, you always have to keep your calm. Calm is a virtue," said Heinz Winkler, owner of Residenz Heinz Winkler in Bavaria, Germany, who cooked up pigeon with Perigord truffles for the guests.

Taking a break from mixing a bowl of chopped onion, ham, black truffles and scallops, Antoine Westermann, owner of Restaurant Buerehiesel in Strasbourg, France, agreed that there was no place for nerves in the kitchen.

"It's not a problem, I am a professional," he said with a shrug.

Despite chefs' reputations for over-sized egos, Mezzaluna's resident chef Andrea Montella, from Italy, said he relished the chance to "see the masters at work", and said there was a lot of camaraderie between the three-star epicurean masters.

"Everyone has their own personality, which are all strong personalities (but) they are having fun," he said.

Joining Westermann and Winkler in the kitchen were Annie Feolde from Italy and Alain Soliveres, Marc Meneau and Jean-Michel Lorain from France.

As the sun set over Bangkok, the 42 serving staff rehearsed the evening, holding out imaginary plates in front of empty seats, as Ohri rushed from bar to restaurant, checking the wines and schmoozing with guests.

"After all the guests (have) left I'll come to the bar and have a glass of champagne and relax," he told AFP, before hurrying off to greet his diners, who he described as "very normal people".